I thought it might be interesting to have a look at the paintings that share the Mona Lisa's gallery in the Louvre. So many images of the Salle des Etats are limited to the Mona Lisa's glass cell on the end wall and ignore the other Renaissance paintings by Venetian artists or painters working in Venice in the 16th century that are hung in her purpose designed room. The purpose of this vast space is to shuffle about six million visitors past the Mona Lisa every year.
Salle des Etats, Mona Lisa on far wall
Let's look at the gallery first and get that out of the way. The plain walls and austere skylight, so different to the original domed glass is very dull indeed.
Of course the Salle des Etats has a much more colourful past. It was the principal state room of Charles-Louis Napoléon Bonaparte, nephew and heir of Napoleon. Napoleon's second wife, (you remember the first was Josephine of not tonight darling & don't leave me Boney fame) Marie-Therese of Austria went home to Daddy, the Emperor of Austria, after Napoleon was finally consigned to the South Atlantic's least desirable tourist destination, St Helena.
Marie-Therese took Napoleon's son and heir with her and never came back to France. That left Napoleon's nephew to take the throne whenever France decided it wanted another despotic ruler.
Napoleon III with his architect
Napoleon III came to the throne as Emperor after first being elected President of the Second Empire. When his term as President expired in 1851 he staged a coup d'état and took the throne where he remained until 1870. During that time he lived in the Tuileries and laid plans to reunite the Louvre with the Tuileries Palace.
The Salle des Etats was his principal room for doing the business of the Empire and it looked rather different to its austere design today, more like a throne room.
The present Salle des Etats design was finished in 2005. The pictures that share the space with La Joconde, as the French call her, are varied and interesting. Let's look at two of them.
This is detail from Veronese's Wedding at Cana or the Wedding Feast at Cana as the Louvre describes it. It's nearly overwhelming in its detail. This section shows wine being poured from jars into which water had been added. When the host ran out of wine Christ performed his first miracle in a precursor to the Eucharist. The whole painting looks like this.
You need a guidebook to get a grip on it and half a day to stand in the gallery and get everything straight in your head. The Louvre's description includes this extract:
"Veronese mixes the sacred and the profane in
establishing the decor. Religious symbols of the Passion are found next to
luxurious 16th-century silver vessels and tableware. The furniture, the
dresser, the ewer, and the crystal goblets and vases reveal the feast in all
its splendor. Each table guest has an individual place setting, complete with
napkin, fork, and knife. In this doubling of meaning, no detail escapes the
artist's eye. While in the center of the composition a servant slices meat,
symbolic of the body of Christ, quinces—symbols of marriage—are served as
dessert to the guests."
That's terrific but let's move onto something much simpler, a painting of hounds. I love dogs and these guys look as though they'd be your faithful friends forever.
The title is Two Hunting Dogs Tied to a Tree Stump. It was done by Jacopo Bassanoand completed in 1548.The two Italian pointers were owned by Antonio Zentani whose emblem was two dogs tied to a tree.
Dogs became important in Renaissance art as symbols of loyalty and Bassano's painting was much admired. Tintoretto copied one of Bassano's pointers and included it in his monumental painting Christ Washing the Disciples' Feet, below.
So Lisa is not alone in her glass tomb after all. She has lots of guests and dogs, the best companions, to keep her company. Of course, there's much more.
The Louvre in 1615 I know I go on about it, but I do do a lot of research when I write a new novel. Over the last six months I've been researching the Louvre and thought I'd share a few things I've learnt with you. The Louvre Palace dates from medieval times and was originally a fortress. It was the main residence of Louis XIV until he moved his court and the seat of government to Versailles in 1682. In the late 16th and early 17th centuries, Henry IV of France carried out major improvements, removing remnants of the medieval fortress, increasing the area of the Cour Carree and completing a link between the Tuileries Palace and the Louvre. Cour Carree today Napoleon used the Tuileries Palace as his home but it was burnt down during unrest in May 1871. The administrative and conservation areas of the Louvre Museum were moved to new space under the Tuileries gardens as part of I.M. Pei's grand design for the entrance pyramid. Cross section of the ne...
I have to admit that philately, or stamp collecting, is not my thing so it came as a surprise to me when I became fascinated by the exploits of Jean de Sperati, an Italian master forger of philatelic specimens. Sperati was born in 1884 into a family of stamp dealers and printers in Pistola, Italy. His real name was Giovanni Desperati. I love 'desperati', it conjures up all kinds of character possibilities for a novelist. He separated it to de Sperati, probably at the time he went to live in Aix-en-Provence in France. The French version doesn't have the same allure. Little Giovanni learnt his trade in the family business which was then operating in Pisa. Then he started producing fake stamps. In this context fakes are genuine specimens altered to increase their value which is done by changing the colour, design or denomination so the forger's creation looks like, and hopefully passes as, a more valuable stamp. When you sell them as the real article they're forge...
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